📸 Photography for Beginners: A Practical Outline
- Ian Miller
- Oct 1
- 8 min read
1. Understanding Your Camera
Types of cameras: DSLR, mirrorless, compact, smartphone
Key parts: lens, sensor, viewfinder, shutter, mode dial
How a camera captures light: the basics of exposure
2. The Exposure Triangle
Aperture: controls depth of field and light intake
Shutter Speed: controls motion blur and exposure time
ISO: controls sensor sensitivity and image noise
How these three work together to balance exposure
3. Basic Camera Settings
Auto vs Manual modes
Aperture Priority (A/Av), Shutter Priority (S/Tv), Program (P)
White balance and metering modes
RAW vs JPEG: what they mean and when to use each
4. Composition Techniques
Rule of thirds
Leading lines and framing
Symmetry, patterns, and negative space
Perspective and depth
How to tell a story through framing
5. Focusing and Sharpness
Autofocus modes: single, continuous, manual
How to avoid motion blur and missed focus
Using focus points and recomposing
6. Lighting Basics
Natural vs artificial light
Direction, quality, and color of light
Golden hour and blue hour
Using shadows and highlights creatively
7. Lenses and Focal Lengths
Prime vs zoom lenses
Wide, standard, and telephoto perspectives
How focal length affects composition and storytelling
8. Practical Shooting Tips
How to hold your camera properly
Shooting in different environments (indoors, outdoors, low light)
Working with people, landscapes, and street scenes
Anticipating moments vs reacting to them
9. Editing and Post-Processing
Basic adjustments: exposure, contrast, color balance
Cropping and straightening
Preserving authenticity in edits
Software options: Lightroom, Snapseed, etc.
10. Developing Your Style
Shooting regularly and reviewing your work
Studying photographers you admire
Exploring themes: emotion, resilience, everyday life
Building a portfolio or visual essay
🌈 The Journey of Light Through a Camera
1. Light Reflects Off the Subject
Every object reflects light based on its color, texture, and shape.
This reflected light carries the visual information that the camera will record.
2. Lens Gathers and Focuses Light
The lens collects scattered light rays and bends them (refraction) to converge at a focal point.
Convex lenses are used to focus light onto the sensor or film.
The focal length determines how wide or narrow the field of view is.
3. Aperture Controls Light Intensity
The aperture is an adjustable opening inside the lens.
A wide aperture (e.g., f/2.8) lets in more light and creates shallow depth of field.
A narrow aperture (e.g., f/16) lets in less light and increases depth of field.
4. Shutter Regulates Light Duration
The shutter opens for a precise time to let light hit the sensor.
Fast shutter speeds freeze motion; slow speeds allow for blur or low-light exposure.
🔋 Sensor: Where Light Becomes Data
Digital Sensors (like in your D300S)
Made of millions of photosites (pixels) that detect light intensity.
Each pixel converts incoming photons into an electrical signal.
These signals are processed into a digital image by the camera’s processor.
Sensor Types
Sensor Type | Description | Common Use |
CCD | High-quality, slower readout | Scientific, older DSLRs |
CMOS | Faster, energy-efficient | Most modern cameras |
Sensor size affects light-gathering ability and depth of field.
Larger sensors (like full-frame) capture more light and detail.
🧪 Image Processing: From Signal to Image
The camera’s processor applies:
White balance
Noise reduction
Sharpening
Color correction
The final image is saved as RAW (unprocessed) or JPEG (processed).
🧠 The Physics Behind It All
Light behaves as both a wave and a particle (wave-particle duality).
Lenses bend light through refraction, focusing it onto the sensor.
The sensor captures the intensity and colour of light, forming a two-dimensional representation of the scene.
🧠 Core Principles of Composition
1. Balance
Symmetrical balance: Both sides of the frame mirror each other—great for calm, formal scenes.
Asymmetrical balance: Unequal elements that still feel visually stable—often more dynamic and emotionally charged.
Tonal balance: Light and dark areas are distributed to guide the eye and create a mood.
2. Visual Weight
Elements like brightness, contrast, sharpness, and saturation carry “weight.”
A small bright object can outweigh a large dull one.
Use weight to anchor the viewer’s gaze or create tension.
3. Hierarchy
Establish a clear primary subject, then layer supporting elements.
Use size, focus, contrast, or placement to define what’s “first,” “second,” and “background.”
🎯 Advanced Techniques to Shape Narrative
1. Leading Lines
Roads, shadows, arms, fences—anything that guides the eye.
Use them to pull the viewer into the scene or toward a subject.
Curved lines feel gentle; diagonals add energy.
2. Framing Within the Frame
Use windows, arches, doorways, or even people to create a visual enclosure.
Adds depth and context, and can isolate the subject emotionally.
3. Layering
Foreground, midground, background—each with its own story.
Helps create dimensionality and narrative tension.
Especially powerful in street scenes or market environments.
4. Negative Space
Empty areas around the subject that allow it to breathe.
Can evoke loneliness, isolation, or quiet strength.
Works beautifully with minimalist compositions or portraits.
🌀 Emotive and Philosophical Approaches
1. Juxtaposition
Contrast between elements: old vs new, still vs moving, rich vs poor.
Creates dialogue within the frame—a tension that invites reflection.
2. The Decisive Moment
Timing becomes part of composition.
The gesture, glance, or interaction that transforms a scene into a story.
3. Implied Motion and Direction
Subjects looking or moving in a certain direction create visual flow.
Leave space in front of them to suggest movement or thought.
4. Colour as Structure
Use complementary or analogous colours to guide the eye.
Warm colours advance, cool colours recede—use this to shape depth and emotion.
📷 Composing with Intention
Think of composition not as a checklist, but as a way to ask questions with your frame:
What do I want the viewer to feel first?
What tension or harmony exists between elements?
What story is unfolding in the space between subjects?
📷 RAW vs JPEG: What They Are and Why It Matters
🧪 RAW: The Digital Negative
A RAW file contains unprocessed data straight from the camera’s sensor.
It’s like undeveloped film—full of potential, but needs post-processing to reveal its full character.
Each camera brand has its own RAW format (e.g., .NEF for Nikon, .CR2/.CR3 for Canon).
🔍 Why RAW Matters
Maximum editing flexibility: You can recover highlights, lift shadows, adjust white balance, and fine-tune exposure without degrading image quality.
Higher bit depth: Typically 12–14 bits per channel, allowing for billions of color variations and smoother tonal transitions.
Non-destructive workflow: Edits are saved as instructions, not baked into the file.
Proof of authenticity: RAW files are harder to manipulate and often used to verify image integrity.
⚠️ Trade-Offs
Requires post-processing in software like Lightroom or Capture One.
Larger file sizes mean fewer shots per card and slower write speeds.
Not universally viewable or shareable without conversion.
🖼️ JPEG: The Ready-to-Use Image
A JPEG file is a processed and compressed version of the image.
The camera applies sharpening, contrast, saturation, and white balance before saving.
✅ Why JPEG Matters
Smaller file size: Easier to store, share, and upload.
Immediate usability: No editing required—great for quick turnaround.
Universal compatibility: Can be opened on virtually any device.
⚠️ Limitations
Lossy compression: Discards data to reduce size, which can lead to artefacts.
Limited editing headroom: Only 8-bit colour depth—less flexibility in recovering detail.
Baked-in settings: You can’t undo camera-applied adjustments like white balance or tone curve.
🧠 Why It Matters to Your Workflow
Feature | RAW | JPEG |
File Size | Large | Small |
Editing Flexibility | High | Low |
Color Depth | 12–14 bit (billions of colours) | 8-bit (16.7 million colours) |
Dynamic Range | Wide | Limited |
Ready to Share | No | Yes |
Requires Processing | Yes | No |
🧭 Which Should You Use?
Use RAW if:
You want full control over your edits.
You shoot in challenging light or high-contrast scenes.
You care about preserving maximum image quality.
Use JPEG if:
You need quick results with minimal editing.
You’re shooting for casual use or social media.
You’re limited on storage or processing time.
Use RAW+JPEG if:
You want flexibility: a JPEG for quick use and a RAW for deeper editing later.
If you’d like, I can help you build a visual guide or teaching resource around this—especially if you’re mentoring others or planning to write about it. Want to explore that next?
Focusing and Sharpness give greater detail/explanation
Let’s go deeper into the mechanics and artistry of focusing and sharpness, especially as they relate to your intuitive, anticipation-driven style. These two elements are often treated as technical hurdles, but they’re also tools for emotional clarity and narrative precision.
🔍 Focusing: The Art of Precision
1. Autofocus Modes
AF-S (Single Servo): Locks focus once—ideal for static subjects.
AF-C (Continuous Servo): Tracks moving subjects—essential for street scenes or market motion.
AF-A (Auto): Camera decides between AF-S and AF-C—less control, more automation.
You likely lean toward AF-C with single-point selection, allowing you to anticipate movement and place focus exactly where the story unfolds.
2. Focus Points and Area Modes
Single Point: Precise control—great for isolating gestures or expressions.
Dynamic Area: Tracks subjects across multiple points—useful for unpredictable motion.
Group Area / 3D Tracking: More automated, but can be erratic in busy scenes.
On the D300S, the 51-point AF system gives you flexibility, but the centre cross-type point is often the most reliable—especially in low light or high-contrast scenes.
3. Manual Focus Techniques
Use Live View magnification for critical focus.
Employ focus peaking (if available) or rely on split-prism feel through the optical viewfinder.
For older lenses, trust your muscle memory and visual intuition—especially when shooting at f/4 or narrower.
🧠 Sharpness: More Than Just Detail
1. Lens Behaviour
Every lens has a “sweet spot”—often 2 stops down from wide open (e.g., f/5.6 on a f/2.8 lens).
Sharpness isn’t just resolution—it’s micro-contrast, edge clarity, and tonal separation.
Your Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D, for example, may not be clinically sharp wide open, but at f/4–f/5.6 it likely delivers crisp edges with organic rendering—perfect for your style.
2. Camera Stability
Tripods help, but in street work, it’s about stance and breathing.
Use the shutter gently—don’t jab.
Mirror lock-up and remote release can help in static scenes, but aren’t practical for your rhythm.
3. Shutter Speed vs Focal Length
General rule: 1/focal length minimum shutter speed (e.g., 1/50s for a 50mm lens).
On crop sensors, multiply by 1.5—so for your 85mm on the D300S, aim for 1/125s or faster.
4. ISO and Noise
Lower ISO = cleaner files = perceived sharpness.
But don’t fear ISO if the moment demands it—grain can serve the story, especially in gritty, film-like work.
🧪 Post-Processing for Sharpness
Use selective sharpening—eyes, hands, textures—not the whole frame.
Avoid over-sharpening; halos and artefacts kill the mood.
Consider clarity and texture sliders for midtone contrast rather than edge sharpening.
Focusing and Sharpness, tailored for those learning through experience rather than dry theory. This can work as a blog post, teaching handout, or part of a series you're building. Here's the structure I propose:
Focusing and Sharpness: Seeing with Precision and Purpose
🧠 1. What Is Sharpness—Really?
Sharpness isn't just about pixel-level detail. It's about emotional clarity, narrative focus, and visual precision. Think of it as defining what matters in the frame.
Technical sharpness: Clarity, contrast, fine detail.
Expressive sharpness: Telling the viewer where to look—and why.
🎯 2. Mastering Autofocus Modes
For DSLR shooters like yourself, autofocus is the first dance with precision.
Mode | Purpose | Ideal Use |
AF-S | Locks focus on a static subject | Portrait, still street scenes |
AF-C | Tracks moving subjects | Market movement, gesture, candid action |
AF-A | Auto-switching | Beginner-friendly, less control |
Tip: Use Single Point AF for precise control—place it where your story lives.
🔍 3. Using Focus Points Intuitively
Focus points help you direct the camera’s attention. On the D300S, the centre cross-type point is the most sensitive.
Recompose after focusing (half-press and shift)
Use outer points cautiously—lower accuracy in low light
Train yourself to move the focus point as your instinct leads
📏 4. Depth of Field and Aperture
Aperture controls how much of the scene appears sharp:
Wide aperture (f/1.8): Isolates subject, blurs background
Mid aperture (f/5.6): Balances subject and environment
Narrow aperture (f/11+): Maximises sharpness across the scene
Distance matters too—closer subjects require more precision and narrower DOF.
🔬 5. Achieving Sharpness in Practice
📐 Stability
Tuck in your elbows and exhale slowly before pressing the shutter
Use camera strap tension for handheld stability
Minimum shutter speed rule: 1/focal length (adjust for crop factor!)
🌗 ISO Balance
Lower ISO = cleaner file = sharper details
But higher ISO might preserve the moment—don’t sacrifice presence for perfection
🎨 In Editing
Sharpen selectively—eyes, hands, edges
Avoid global sharpening artefacts
Try Clarity and Texture for midtone contrast
🖼️ 6. When Sharpness Isn’t the Point
Some moments ask for softness. A gesture in motion. A face in fading light. In these cases, a slight blur or missed focus can serve the story better than perfect detail.
Sharpness should be purposeful, not default. It’s not about perfection—it’s about intent.
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